Useful fishing tips


Fishing Academy

The well-known proverb is very suitable for fishing since ancient times: "Live and learn"... And any, it would seem, a trifle, can contribute to a successful fishing.

Jig with a ball

By the end of summer, in most water bodies, an active pre-autumn zeal of predators begins - perch, pike, trout, pike perch, asp, and sometimes chub. You can successfully catch them on a jig with a simple design. (see fig. 1)... It is necessary to solder a ball with a diameter of 4-8 millimeters from any bearing to the hook No. 4-8. It is very important that the ball does not rust. It needs to be painted red, white, black, and wiped dry after each fishing trip. A flexible rod with a length of about 1.5 meters, a line with a diameter of 0.25-0.3 millimeters. A worm attachment, or even better pieces of small fish.

Comfortable canna

From galvanized iron, you can make a convenient canna for storing live bait while fishing (see 2)... The canna should be closed with a lid with holes for changing the water when immersed in water. Zhivtsov can also be kept in a regular bucket. Only it must be wrapped in a fine net, otherwise roach, dace and some other fish will jump out of it.

Detachable without cord

When releasing the hook of a float rod or a spinner caught on an object at the bottom of the reservoir, anglers use a special cut-off. A mandatory accessory for the cut is a cord on which it sinks to the bottom. If the hook is caught, but there is no cut, an ordinary lead plate, from which the sinkers are made, will help out. It is necessary to drill a hole in the plate with the tip of a knife, then pass the line from a fishing rod into it, folded in half (see 3)... Holding the formed loop with the left hand, the plate is lowered along the fishing line to the bottom. With your right hand, you need to pull the rod several times. The hook will be removed. Together with the hook, the plate rises from the bottom. A nut, wrench or other object with a hole or ring can be used as a release. At the same time, there must be a sufficient supply of line on the rod.

Splicing the line

Splicing lines of the same diameter is usually straightforward. But when you have to splicing lines of different diameters, then problems arise. To get rid of them, I advise you to use this method ... Two fishing lines are laid on top of each other with an overlap of 7-10 centimeters. One end is twisted around both lines twice to get a knot in the form of an eight (see 4a)... The end is tightened tightly. Then the same is done with the other end. The knots are pulled together, and the excess ends are cut off.

If you need permanent (non-removable) leads on the main line, you can tie them like this. The main line is bent from left up to right down in small rings, then the right ring is brought down under the left one with gaps. The leash is passed through the rings, under each line in turn, and, holding it, tighten the knot (see 4b).

Wire rod

The main function of a wired rod is fishing on the current, in rapids and in places where it is difficult to cast an ordinary tackle. In a wired fishing rod, the main role is played by a sinker, which moves freely from one limiter to another. The first is located at the point where the leash is attached, and the second is 50-100 centimeters away from it in the direction of the float.

The purpose of a wire rod is to provide long casting. The lead ball sinker has a through hole for free line passage. Such a sinker ensures the retention of the leash and the hook with a nozzle at a given point (at the place of bait, near grass thickets, in a pit where fish can stand). When casting, the tackle, under the action of a movable sinker, accepts the stop of the lower limiter (near the hook), while the float is in a semi-vertical state.

When the fish bites, the fishing line with a hook and a nozzle moves freely to the upper stop, and under the influence of movement, the float goes into the water. Such a tackle reduces the caution of the fish, and the nozzle is in constant motion and the turbidity raised from the bottom attracts the fish. The nozzle can be freely thrown 25 meters with the wire harness.

Necessary little things

The best float can be made from apple or pear wood: it is heavy, durable, and also does not absorb moisture well. It is advisable to paint the float, alternating white with some other, clearly visible. Such a rather weighty float can be thrown without a sinker and even against the wind. It works especially effectively when fishing with a reel.

Often you have to fish in clear water and in bright sun. In such conditions, for successful fishing, it is necessary to use lures with a dull color or with a matte surface. The repelling shine of the bait can be easily and quickly extinguished by holding it over a piece of burning birch birch bark.

Alexander Nosov


Useful fishing tips - garden and vegetable garden

Question about sawdust mulch.
I poured out all the available sawdust mass (tyrsa) on a free area (in a corner). A layer of about 20 cm (1m * 1m). Poured 20 liters of urea solution. But the tyrsa was soaked only by 0.5-1 cm. Icon_eek.gif icon_eek.gif This is how much water I need to water such mulch under garden and vegetable crops. Is the amount of water spent equal to A and B.
And - not mulched crops - just watering.
B - mulched with tyrsa.

Answer
Oh, and you will finish playing with sawdust and urea. When urea solution is introduced into sawdust, a violent process begins with a large release of ammonia, which, as you know, is a rather aggressive gas, which, although in small doses, is useful for plants, but in large doses is detrimental to plants.
If you have already decided to add urea to the sawdust, then do not immediately use these sawdust as mulch, otherwise you will ruin everything. It is better to keep the sawdust in a heap for several months after adding urea to the sawdust, and it is better to use them as mulch for the next year.

To begin with, sawdust does not kill nitrogen, but is borrowed for temporary use, then they will give it away.
Next, how will they pick it up when mulching? They come into contact only with the soil surface and cannot strongly consume nitrogen from it. when burying, yes, they can, but mulching and burying are different processes.

Exactly. The whole point is that fresh sawdust embedded in the soil becomes food for soil organisms, which need nitrogen to build their bodies from protein. There is strong competition between bacteria and roots.
But the gardener, frightened by good uncles with degrees, refuses to bring them to the surface of the soil, where on the soil-mulch border the process we all need takes place, the results of which flow deep into the soil channels and generally are dragged into the soil by a worm.

I'm talking about sawdust tracking. In my very modest experience, sawdust cakes if they are very small. In the fall, I sprinkled several young strawberry bushes with small (very small!) Sawdust, so after the snow melted, they really seemed to be sintered into a single monolith - it was necessary to loosen.
And last year I mulched raspberries with medium and large sawdust - great!

* can sawdust be used as mulch in the greenhouse (fresh) growing tomatoes and peppers?
** It is possible and necessary, because sawdust is lighter and therefore serves as a screen against soil heating, and therefore from a significant increase in temperature and humidity in the greenhouse itself, which happens if the soil is mulched with dark mulch such as peat or is simply loosened, getting rid of weeds. So that sawdust does not create problems such as unauthorized intake of nitrogen, the mulch should be a thin layer, just to cover the soil.
*** And my experiment with sawdust was sharply negative. Perhaps the species of trees from which sawdust plays a role ... I did not have mulch and I decided to mulch the onion with sawdust ... And that's all ... My bow just did not die, barely grew. In short, there was no harvest ... And the sawdust itself was not rotted in the garden next year ... Perennial onions (batun, chives) were also mulched. And the picture is the same - and the land has not improved, and the harvest is poor ... Now sawdust only along the aisles between the beds, I have wide aisles, sawdust does not allow the grass to grow - it turns out clean and beautiful.

But straw, hay and leaves are another matter. In one season, they manage to overheat, the land has become crumbly and fertility has increased significantly. And we bought our site five years ago. The ground was completely empty.

* Of course, there are many nuances. But as I understand it, the primary role is played by the already existing soil living creatures in the ground. If there is a lot of it and it is diverse, sawdust is also included in the work: there is someone to work with.
I mulch the onion that has already risen well. We need to let the soil warm up. And without mulch, my sand instantly dries up to dust ... If you water it, the water rolls down from the garden in pellets ...
Disorder ...
Sawdust - I prefer to find wood chips from a planer. There the tree is already dried. Small ones, from a saw or a sawmill, I try not to use as much as possible.
Although you have to, where to go ...
***

Try to stand the sawdust for a year somewhere in the corner of the garden, pouring it with a herbal fermentor ...

Answer agrees that the amount of living creatures in the soil plays a huge role. Indeed, when she poured sawdust on her beds - what was the state of the land? Yes, nothing ... And at that time the main motive was to improve the composition and fertility of the soil. But alas ... the sawdust did not work and even vice versa ...

Now I use a different mulch in the beds - hay, straw, leaves. And sawdust is also very welcome, but I only fill up the aisles between the beds with them. This works great - dry, clean on the surface and damp on the inside. The worms are just crazy. Moreover, in our climate, sawdust in the aisles is re-peeled for several years ... The grass does not grow, I like it.


Useful fishing tips - garden and vegetable garden

And then the materials were grouped by another Olya alata

When buying, you need to know what task we want to perform with its help: so that it is like an ampelous one and hangs from a flowerpot or be compact bushes, or maybe it completely fills the space in the flower bed. To do this, I pay attention to the height of the plant (for example, "Sonya White" - up to 30cm, RR mix - 20cm declared.) If nothing is written, then as a rule such petunia will be very long (old varieties). When planting a plant, I add ash, and during the season (once a week) I feed it with "Baby" fertilizer for tomatoes (2 tablespoons per 5 liters of water). Good results were also obtained when feeding AVA, for balcony flowers. Petunia loves to eat, but potassium-phosphorus "food".

Multi-flowered petunia
Varieties and hybrids of this group are distinguished by an abundance of medium-sized flowers. This is the most unpretentious, cold-resistant, rain- and wind-resistant, early blooming petunia. Plants of modern F1 hybrids resemble flowering balls, and in a flower garden they form a solid carpet. The varieties are less decorative, as they usually have a spreading bush shape.
multiflora low compact (f. multiflora nana compacta) - plants 20-35 cm tall, smooth flowers 5-6 cm in diameter, bloom 70-75 days from sowing
multi-flowered low terry (f. multiflora nana flore pleno) - plants 30-40 cm high, flowers 6-7 cm in diameter, smooth, bloom 70-75 days from sowing

Petunia floribunda
It occupies an intermediate position between multi-flowered and large-flowered. The plants have many relatively large flowers, which, like the multiflorous petunia, are slightly damaged by rain. It is most advisable to use varieties and hybrids of this group for large flower beds, since this petunia is most effective only in bulk.

Large-flowered petunia
The most popular group, numbering hundreds of varieties and hybrids with very large and beautiful flowers, but having significant drawbacks in our climate - a weak rain resistance of flowers and a relatively small number of them on a plant. In petunia, large-flowered flowers are damaged by any rain or strong wind, the plants temporarily lose their decorative effect.
Allocate:
large-flowered (f. grandiflora) - sprawling bush up to 60 cm tall, smooth flowers, 8-10 cm in diameter, bloom 80-90 days from sowing
large-flowered low (f. grandiflora nana) - compact bush 25-30 cm tall, smooth flowers, 8-10 cm in diameter, bloom 80-90 days after sowing
large-flowered fringed (f. grandiflora fimbriata) - bush 60-75 cm tall, large flowers with a narrow tube, fringed along the edge, 10-12 cm in diameter, bloom on 85-95 days from sowing
large-flowered fringed low (f. grandiflora fim-briata nana) - compact bush 25-35 cm tall, flowers 10-12 cm in diameter, fringed along the edge, bloom on 85-95 days from sowing
large-flowered superb (f. grandiflora super-bissima) - sprawling bush, 50-75 cm tall, large flowers, up to 12 cm in diameter, with an even or wavy edge, a wide tube with a mass of darker colored veins, bloom on 85-95 days from sowing
large-flowered superb low (f. grandiflora superbissima nana) - compact bush 30-40 cm tall, large flowers, 10-12 cm in diameter, smooth edges, wide pharynx with a mass of darker colored veins, bloom on 85-95 days from sowing
large-flowered terry (f. grandiflora flore pleno) - sprawling bush 50-60 cm tall, large flowers, double, with a smooth or fringed edge, 10-12 cm in diameter.

This year, PP did not let me down, but for some reason I did not succeed in the declared uniformity and height of the plant, the gramophones are really big, but. very sad, and in the rain they generally hang with rags on the leaves. Frillitunia (petunia with mugs) disappointed, and not even because the "lace" absorbed the rain and then restored its appearance for a long time, but because the gramophone was too small. I really liked the petunia "Tango & qu

I really liked the petunia "Tango" -white (similar to Sonya-White). It constantly bloomed, struck with large flowers, did not get wet from the rain, and all the flowers were tightly pressed to the stem, very decorative. Photo 3

The most stable in the terrible weather conditions of this year were precisely the cascading ones. Those that hung in pots under the roof did not differ at all from those that spent the whole summer in the open air. And terry, I also showed themselves well, their stems are thick, like woody ones, they did not die at all, unlike ordinary ordinary ones.

I still choose petunia by clothes, if I like the color and it matches the idea, I take it right away. probably this is a matter of chance, but I come across "successful" seeds, successful producers. Among them are the seeds "Biotekhnika" and Russian seeds ".
"Salmon White" all sprang up and, interestingly, grew well in seedlings and bloomed early, and another proprietary, purple hybrid (I forgot the name) also pleased with germination and flowers. We were surprised by the seeds of the Prestige company, the Duo series (American line), bloomed very profusely and bushy. Maybe I was just lucky, but this year the problem was different: where to plant everything that came up

I grew both cascading and ampelous and did not notice much difference, besides the fact that ampelous petunias have more flexible stems (that is, it grows a little upward) and it quickly "becomes" an ampel in the word familiar to us.

Surfinia is just one of the variety of ampelina petunias. Ampel petunias are distinguished into a separate group. This group is characterized by a huge number of flowers that sprinkle the shoots and, as I said earlier, shoots tend to grow downward from an early age or creep along the ground if they do not grow in tall containers or vases. It is believed that ampelous petunia is more thermophilic and demanding on moisture, therefore it is difficult for us to achieve such a result "as in the picture", and the lashes grow much shorter. All series of ampel petunias, except for "Fortunia", do not propagate by seeds. If the bag with seeds says that this is "Surfinia" F-1, etc., etc., then this is a hoax.
A little off topic
Yes, last year I also bought such a Lobelia erinus pendula "Red Cascade", it has nothing to do with the really red color.Only its cascade was confirmed, it grew up to 35 cm further, its shoots become careless at the base from watering and dressing.

Depending on what kind of petunia you are going to plant, a terry multi-colored mixture can belong to a different group of petunias. For example. terry petunia multiflora (Petunia F-1 Multiflora double) hangs out of the pot more than petunia grandiflora (Petunia grandiflora double), but in any case it will not reach half a meter

Terry petunia I called "Double Cascade Blue". Grandiflora large-flowered terry. These will not hang from the basket under any circumstances. Seeds from the Russian garden, and the mongrel cost 7 rubles a bag called a snow globe, there was also the same Pink sky. Length according to the passport 40 cm. But in pots they looked much better than in soil. There was also Baskin Robins, whom I sketched out:

All petunias look good in a flower bed, but there is such a gradation that the larger the flower, the faster it will lose its decorative effect. This corresponds to the varieties of large-flowered (Grandiflora) and varieties of the multiflora group (Multiflora) petunias. Multi-flowered plants lose their decorative effect faster with prolonged rains. Last rainy summer, the flowers in the flowerbed got wet, rotted and I had to cut them off all the time. Petunia is not for a damp summer in a flower bed, but in comparison with the listed groups, gr. Floribunda, which occupies an intermediate position between large-flowered and multi-flowered petunias, is more resistant to weather disasters. I liked how the compact "Lambada" petunia looks on the flowerbed, but the "Russian size" petunias should not be planted on the flowerbed.
Feel free to plant a helmet in the ground

Lareta, it depends on the petunia belonging to one or another group and the hybrid feature, including, for example, the height of an adult plant), and also on the germination rate. In the same land, petunias sown at the same time behave differently, For example, sown on February 5 "Pikoti" (mixture) (Petunia hybrida) has at the moment (February 23) an average of 3 true leaves.
Andrea (purple) and Marika (red) (Petunia hybrida multiflora) also have 2 true leaves, but these petunias vary greatly in size.
Terry "Double Caskade F1 Orhid Mist" and "Double Caskade F1 Burgundy", (Petunia grandiflora double) with a declared height of 15 cm, dumpy, even with 3 large true leaves. Like this.

The "varietal" peculiarity "implies" the growth rate. For the second year in a row I have driven Double Cascade F1, followed by Petunia hibrida and Petunia F1 grandiflora sown at the same time.

All ramblins and explorers are "in a hurry", moreover, on my petunia (from 17 02.) in a close volume, never transplanted, a rudiment of a flower was never seen. All cascading, ampelous ramblers and explorers need to be pinched, ramblers have lateral shoots (above 3-4 leaves), they are characterized by faster growth. If you do not pinch, then shoots of a different order are formed, which do not add beauty, but form a somewhat "untidy" bush.

With the specified size - a clear overkill, in real life Double Caskade F1 petunia "Orchid mist" (Wild Orchid) grows to 8-9cm. at the very beginning of flowering, and then this size is retained only in a complete, collapsed dissolution, before fading, and even then not all blossomed buds.
The mixture of petunias of the "Double Duo" series, in comparison with the Petunia grandiflora double, is distinguished by a higher "growth", tillering well, but its flower size is max. 5-6cm. and less terry and crimped than Orchid mist, for example, and therefore the Duo series is more resistant to rain (does not turn into rags).

Tinochka, the main difference between Frilithunia is the flower shape. In Frilithunia, it is large, with a strongly wavy tube, as well as wavy (scalloped) edges. Branched bush, 50-60 cm in diameter. At the same time 10-15 flowers in dissolution. But in my opinion, this information is also contained in the bags. The flower is beautiful in my opinion. I also have several copies planted. By the way, it was Freilitunia (for me personally) that germination was not very good, I had to sow it. But maybe this is just an accident.

I have, for example, a "girl" of the Wave of Luck variety. So it was originally all kind of curly and with a lot of side shoots. I don't touch her.

Lobelia
The Can Can series is characterized by a two-tone color and a rather compact but sprawling size. Last year I grew "Harlequin Burgundy", not to say that I am delighted with it, everything is for everybody. Flowers with white stripes of different sizes (seen in the photo) may appear on one plant, which gives it a not very neat look.
In the photo: "Harlequin Burgundy", series Can Can.
Picture Picture Picture
frosik
I liked Fortunia Lilac and Pearl surf.
Fortunia is an ampelnik. It grows very quickly, strongly branches. Lots of flowers! The length of the shoots reached 60-70 cm. It is resistant to bad weather.
Picture

Lobelia
Petunia Falcon series "Red Wayne" - grandiflora. "Prestige seeds". Sowing 25.02., Did not pinch
The plant is well bushy, strong. The flowers are large, saucer-shaped, with a bright red throat and veins. As it grows, amazing color changes appear on the petals. Grown higher than stated, but all flowers and buds appeared at the same height. I consider the main disadvantage to be very wet from the rain, as a result of which the flowers become stained and lose their decorative effect for a day.
Picture Picture Picture

viola
Petunia Tornado F1 Cherry.
Petunia giant cascading (Petunia hedgiflora). Platinum series. Seeds from Biotechnics.
The first flowerpot is cherry. Landing 20.02.10. Powerful, firm stems. Abundant flowering. It grows quickly on the flowerbed - spreads, quickly recovers after rain.
I pinched it, only at the beginning, when it was still in the glass, so that it would not grow into one stem, about the volume, I know that the diameter of the pots is 45 cm. Fertilizers - for 1 pots 1 scoop of Etisso for the whole summer - and "the head does not ".
Picture

frosik
viola, I can correct it a little: Tornado Cherry is a petunia Tidal Wave, trailing (i.e. ampelous)
As for the pinching, I can say that I pinch any petunia if I see a need for it

Lobelia
Petunia DUO Red, terry multi-flowered. " Search"
Sowing 02.22., Pinched 2 times: at seedling age and in May, after disembarking in a flowerpot.
After pinching, it bushes well, grows quickly and forms a large number of double flowers similar to carnations.
However, in comparison with large-flowered petunia, these "carnations" do not last long, fade. To maintain decorativeness, wilted flowers were constantly plucked out. Resistant to rain.

Suomi
Petunia grandiflora Triumph dark purple (Petunia hybrida grandiflora superbissima nana purple).
Seeds from Aelita. Height 60cm, flower diameter 16cm.
I sowed seedlings on 02.24, but next year I will sow early, I think in early February, because it takes a very long time to grow buds. The seeds were in granules, they sprouted very amicably. Sowed in peat tablets and in my opinion they were very comfortable there. Very responsive to various fertilizers once a week. At the very beginning, when I dropped it off at a permanent place in a flowerpot, I pinched it. I planted 2-3 pieces in a 10-liter flowerpot. I noticed that with frequent pinching, the flower becomes smaller and becomes not as curly as the first flowers.

Picture Picture Picture

Petunia Superbissima Alba F1. Grandiflora.
Finnish seeds. Height about 40 cm and flower size 16cm.
They were sown on 24.02.2010. I also think it's too early. The stems are very thick, the leaves are oily. I pinched it for the first time in the phase of 6-7 leaves and the second time in an adult state, when it was planted outside. It responds very well to all kinds of feeding, even in an infant state. I first planted it on flower beds, but as she spread her branches on the ground, she did not see all her beauty. Transplanted into pots of 3 pcs. in 10-liter and 2 pcs. in 7 liters. They immediately became visible. I also noticed that after pinching the flower becomes smaller, but still beautiful.
Picture Picture Picture

Lobelia
Petunia "Sonya Brilliant Rose" - petunia hybrida. "Sonja Brilliant Star
Russian seeds, sowing 5.02, did not pinch, 2 petunias in a cast iron with a volume of 5 liters.

Like all petunias of the Sonya series, it forms a dense, strong bush, very uniform throughout the entire growing period. Regular feeding makes flowering continuous. The flowers are large, slightly wavy, the petals stick together from the rain, but the petunia quickly regains its presentable appearance. The color did not match with the picture, in life it is much darker.

Suomi
Petunia Ampelnaya Velvet F1 purple (Petunia hybrida grandiflora pendula).
Sowed 03/07/2010. It took a long time to sprout and gain growth, but then how it grew! Fertilized 2 times a week, alternated nitrogen and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Didn't pinch! And did not remove faded flowers. Planted in ampel pots, 1-2 pieces in 3-liter ampels, and other ampels were 2 liters each, so there is one plant. The flowers are not very large, although it was written Grandiflora. Scourge about 80 cm. Seeds from the House of Seeds St. Petersburg

Lobelia
Fortunia "Wave of Fortune".
NK Russian vegetable garden, seeds of PROFI. sowing 25.02. 2 pcs in a 15 liter bucket.

It grew rapidly, and along with its growth it bloomed completely continuously. Didn't pinch. A very joyful petunia, strong, large flowers, immediately filled the entire flowerpot with shoots and began to go down, forming a ball. Resistant to rain, drops roll off the petals and decorative, quickly recovers. The flowers are larger than those of fortune. Waterfall, odorless. In the photo, respectively, June, July, August.

Oksya
Petunia "Blue Waterfall" F1
Petunia grandiflora - terry cascading
The seeds of the company "Aelita" have been pleasing with excellent germination for two years. Early flowering petunia with good branching. The flowers are large (I have up to 10-12 cm), densely double, blue-violet. On individual bushes, there are variations with white veins. It responds well to pinching in seedlings at the stage of 5-6 true leaves. At the same time, it quickly forms side shoots and forms a compact fluffy bush. Feels good both in the exhaust gas and in the pots. In the latter case, it stretched somewhat as it grew, but after pruning, it quickly regained its shape and again formed a profusely flowering ball. The flowers have a pleasant delicate aroma, in principle they are resistant to bad weather, although they become limp during prolonged rains. But after flowering, it quickly recovers. I planted 2 plants per 8 liters of soil in a pots.
The same petunia is included in the "Day and Night" mixture from Aelita.

I continue to borrow the catalog of petunias from Forumhouse
Lobelia
Petunia "Sonya Brilliant Rose" - petunia hybrida. "Sonja Brilliant Star
Russian seeds, sowing 5.02, did not pinch, 2 petunias in a cast iron with a volume of 5 liters.

Like all petunias of the Sonya series, it forms a dense, strong bush, very uniform throughout the entire growing period. Regular feeding makes flowering continuous. The flowers are large, slightly wavy, the petals stick together from the rain, but the petunia quickly regains its presentable appearance. The color did not match with the picture, in life it is much darker.

Suomi
Petunia Ampelnaya Velvet F1 purple (Petunia hybrida grandiflora pendula).
Sowed 03/07/2010. It took a long time to sprout and gain growth, but then how it grew! Fertilized 2 times a week, alternated nitrogen and potassium-phosphorus fertilizers. Didn't pinch! And did not remove faded flowers. Planted in ampel pots, 1-2 pieces in 3-liter ampels, and other ampels were 2 liters each, so there is one plant. The flowers are not very large, although it was written Grandiflora. Scourge about 80 cm. Seeds from the House of Seeds St. Petersburg

Lobelia
Fortunia "Wave of Fortune".
NK Russian vegetable garden, seeds of PROFI. sowing 25.02. 2 pcs in a 15 liter bucket.

It grew rapidly, and along with its growth it bloomed completely continuously. Didn't pinch. A very joyful petunia, strong, large flowers, immediately filled the entire flowerpot with shoots and began to go down, forming a ball. Resistant to rain, drops roll off the petals and decorative, quickly recovers. The flowers are larger than those of fortune. Waterfall, odorless. In the photo, respectively, June, July, August.

Oksya
Petunia "Blue Waterfall" F1
Petunia grandiflora - terry cascading
The seeds of the company "Aelita" have been pleasing with excellent germination for two years. Early flowering petunia with good branching. The flowers are large (I have up to 10-12 cm), densely double, blue-violet. On individual bushes, there are variations with white veins. It responds well to pinching in seedlings at the stage of 5-6 true leaves. At the same time, it quickly forms side shoots and forms a compact fluffy bush. Feels good both in the exhaust gas and in the pots. In the latter case, it stretched somewhat as it grew, but after pruning, it quickly regained its shape and again formed a profusely flowering ball. The flowers have a pleasant delicate aroma, in principle they are resistant to bad weather, although they become limp during prolonged rains. But after flowering, it quickly recovers. I planted 2 plants per 8 liters of soil in a pots.
The same petunia is included in the "Day and Night" mixture from Aelita.

Petunia "SuperCascade white"
Petunia grandiflora F1
Seeds of the company "Aelita". A bush 40 cm high, highly branching, responds well to pinching in the early stages of growth. Abundant petunia with huge (up to 13 cm) snow-white, glowing flowers. Flowers open constantly, there were moments when there were so many of them that there was literally nowhere for new flowers to fully unfold. On the glassed-in balcony, the bush stretched out a little and fell apart. And in the garden in a flowerpot, this petunia grew in more compact and dense bushes. By the end of summer, flowering became less abundant. Pruning helped, after a while petunia pleased with new cascades of flowers. Planted in pots 3.5 l - 1 plant. And in a flowerpot of about 40 liters - 3 bushes of this petunia, surrounded by 15 lobelia bushes.

Cascade petunia "Ramblin Peach" trailing petunia F1
Seeds of the firm "Russian Garden", the "Profi" series, please with 100% germination.
The bush is compact, strongly branched, in principle does not need to be pinched, but if you pinch it, it will not be very offended. It rises above the pot by 20-30 cm, then goes down, closing the pot with a ball, completely covered with flowers. Flowering is very abundant, constant. No haircut required. But he constantly sets the seeds and, if you do not remove the faded buds, the flowering becomes not so abundant. The flowers are resistant to rain, completely restores their appearance within half an hour. The scourge is fairly molten, but not brittle, it tolerates wind well. Requires volumes of at least 5 liters per plant, for a large volume and regular feeding it will thank you with a bright color of flowers and a thick, dense bush.
By the way, this petunia overwintered without any problems in my city apartment and it seems that it is going to do it again this year.

Oksya
Cascade petunia "Ramblin Lilac" trailing petunia F1
Seeds of the firm "Russian Garden", series "Profi". The bush is somewhat more compact than that of its fellow Ramblin Peach. Otherwise, these two petunias are very similar in bush shape, growth principle and growing requirements. The flower is pale lilac in color, the petals are pearl, as it were. In the bright sun, the color becomes more intense, but at the same time, a kind of tenderness and romance is lost. Spotted color variations occur. The volumes, as for Ramblin Peach, are needed sufficient, at least 5 liters per plant. Pinching is irrelevant, the bush branches on its own. Just like the previous comrade, it needs to remove the faded buds along with the seed pods.
Picture Picture Picture

Lobelia
Petunia Pikoti Velvet - petunia multiflora Aelita, Candy series
Sowing 02.22, did not pinch, 2 plants in a pot.
I still expect a large white ruffle from this petunia, which would emphasize its rich color, but no, not uniformity in color - this is Pikoti. The plant is strong, lined flowers are large. Due to its dense texture, the flowers do not stick together and do not break from the rain. Has grown above the declared height (25cm) to 35cm. Sets seeds, but I tried to prevent this by regularly removing drooping flowers. In the photo it is June, and by the middle of August Pikoti practically began to form flowers without a white border.

Elenka02
Firstly, thanks a lot for creating this theme !! It is sooooo useful to us for beginners!
From my first experience, I liked the most:
1.Tornado Silver, Biotechnics.Sown 27.02.10. Ascended 03/02/2010. 5 out of 5!
It was defined in a 12 liter pot, but when I removed its roots, everything was braided, I concluded that he needed a capacity of at least 18 liters. I made another mistake when I got entangled in ampels and bush it was Silver who pinched one! As a result, one bush was bald in the middle.

2.Ramblin Neon Rose, Biotech manufacturer. I liked the unrealistically bright color, on a sunny day it hurt my eyes. Well, like all ramblins, it is distinguished by a powerful bush with an abundance of flowers. One minus, the flowers suffered greatly from the rains.

frosik
Petunia of the "Bravo" variety series grandiflora (large-flowered).
One of the most unpretentious petunias, even self-seeding retains its parental characteristics (photo 1). The bush is compact, 20-25 cm, stretched a little on the loggia. He loves pinching very much, it turns out a dense rug in the ground (photo 2). The flowers are huge up to 15 cm. It blooms quickly. Many colors.
Sown this year in March in a flower pot without shelter, sown at the beginning of April. Very cold-resistant, blooms even after light frosts.
Picture Picture Picture

Lobelia
Petunia Halahul Red F1 Agro Success
Sowing 25.02, in a cast iron 2 pcs, did not pinch.

Very compact, strong and elegant petunia, it bushes well and does not fall apart. This is one of the petunias in which the size fully corresponded to the indicated one (30 + -5 cm.) Does not suffer at all from rain, the flowers are slightly smaller than those of the similar "Pikoti", odorless.


In order to house garden garden with own hands was well-groomed, and the trees and plants bore good fruit, it is important to know all the details about how to properly care for them. People begin to prepare for planting even in winter - they choose high-quality seeds, plan on which site and what should be planted. Each plant has its own secrets of how to care for it. Usually for those who do this professionally, or grow fruits and vegetables for themselves, there are special editions.

Garden vegetable garden log talks in detail about how to properly care for plants, how to avoid diseases, and what needs to be done in order to get a good harvest. There are many different plants, and care for each of them should be chosen depending on what kind of soil they will grow in, how favorable their environment is, and what kind of care they will be provided with. It is impossible to know everything and about all plants, therefore people often turn to garden vegetable garden shop... There are people who can advise and help with the care of various types of plants. Also, there you can choose seedlings or seeds of various crops that will be planted in the garden or vegetable garden.

Universal rules for care

There are some universal rules that you need to follow, regardless of whether you are going to plant trees, or seedlings for vegetables.... Garden and vegetable garden plants it is important to plant so that some plants help others. This is possible because some plants have special enzymes that positively affect other plants. For example, apple trees with dill or tomatoes grow well next to them. Then the lower branches of apple trees are not beaten by parasites, because they are repelled by these carriers of phytoncides. If corn is planted between the rows in the garden, then there are fewer tree pests. Through the row, you can plant cabbage and tomatoes - then there will be no caterpillars on the cabbage, and there will be more tomatoes. Many people know that onions can be grown mixed with carrots, then the harvest of these two crops in the fall will be good. Many people are familiar with the problem that the apple harvest is beaten by harmful insects. To save yourself from the apple moth, it is recommended to attach a belt to a tree with glue from rats, mice and insects applied to it.

You can also attach a jar of diluted vinegar, where all the insects will flock. Everyone wants to grow vegetables in small quantities on their site. They do not go for sale, but go straight to the table - and you can be completely sure of their naturalness and quality. Such a vegetable is a tomato. Growing this crop, many are faced with the problem that the seedlings are stretched and become thin, not supporting the weight of the tomatoes. This can be dealt with very simply by cutting off the lower leaves of the seedlings. They can be cut even when the tomatoes have already been transplanted, then the seedlings will not hurt. This is because fresh air is available to the stem. When a lot of plants grow on the site, you can forget what and where it was planted. A new seedling will sprout, and the forgetful farmer will simply confuse it with a weed and pull it out of the ground. To prevent this from happening, you need to cut out the rings from a plastic bottle and stick them into the ground in the middle of the seedlings. Garden and vegetable garden tips are very different, and they depend on the situations in which different plants are grown. Before you start disembarking, it is better to familiarize yourself in advance with all the rules for a particular culture. Then the work will not be done in vain, and the plants will give a good harvest.


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Description: Are you the owner of a personal plot, do you have your own dacha or vegetable garden? Then you just need to have interlocutors to discuss the little tricks and tricks to get a high yield. Here you will always be aware of all the news in the world of gardening. We will help you create a beautiful garden using the latest technology with the introduction of design solutions.

The group is designed to unite like-minded people in one direction, such as creating a unique dacha with your own hands. You can always find help here.

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Effective pest control in the garden
SAVE TO DON'T FORGET

-Getting rid of onion and carrot flies
-Potato bugs will no longer be shown in full.
-Fight against aphids
-Fight against a bear (cabbage)
-Fight against moles

Getting rid of onion and carrot flies

The simplest but most effective way is to treat the beds with a weak ammonia solution. You can use ammonia - 2 tbsp. for 5 liters of water. It will not be superfluous to add 2 drops of iodine and 1/3 teaspoon of dry boric acid to 5 liters of solution, this will serve as a good nourishment for onions and mochas.

Fighting Colorado beetles

The Colorado potato beetle does not tolerate garlic. It is enough to stick its cloves between the potato bushes. You can also make a solution - 200 gr. chop the garlic, pour a bucket of water and leave all day. After that, laundry soap (50 g) is diluted in the solution, and the area is sprayed with this composition.

If an aphid attacked, it is best to hit it with ammonia. Two tablespoons of ammonia in a bucket of water plus an adhesive - a spoonful of detergent or shampoo. Aphids fall in shock. And ammonia evaporates quickly and gets a little into the leaf - this is a common foliar nitrogen dressing.

Fighting the bear (cabbage)

We buy ammonia at the pharmacy, then we dilute it with 10 mg per 10 liters of water. And when we plant seedlings, then pour a half liter jar under each bush. And that's it, you will be with seedlings and with the harvest. This is the second year I have been doing this, and you know, it helps!

Castor oil is considered a popular ingredient in the fight against moles. You can prepare your own remedy based on it. To create a concentrate, mix 200 ml of castor oil and 3 tbsp. liquid soap or dishwashing detergent. Dilute the resulting mixture at the rate of 30 ml per 4 liters of water. Spread the solution over the surface of the area occupied by moles. This is best done after rain or watering.



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